1/15/2013: Steppin’ Out

Feedback from Reader Rachel: This is very endearing, but I can not even IMAGINE where you ended up, or how. Next time I am giving you directions myself!

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Rachel’s open house is 6:00 to 8:00. We’re all invited.

It’s three special occasions in one: holiday celebration, chance to see Rachel’s beautiful home (the house is 100 years old today!), get-together for the co-workers. Rachel is our illustrious radiant colleague who happens to be an exquisite baker. Even if I can’t eat the treats, it’s going to be fun to see what confections she’s dreamed up. Not only that, down the street at the lake there is the annual candle luminaria festival; before or after the open house, people can stroll the waterfront to ooh and aah at the homemade lanterns and other glowing floatcraft. I can’t wait to see it for myself, and take pictures. And, at the main intersection nearby, there’s an Orthodox church open for Saturday Slavonic Vespers.

I thanked Rachel for the invitation and let her know she can count on me. The online map shows how easy it is. I would print out the online map and bring it along, but maps are hard for me to follow. So instead I distill the map into linear verbal instructions to myself: bus stop, then church, then straight up the street a few little blocks to her corner. Can’t miss it!

I tuck her address and phone number in my waist pack, wash my hair and fluff it up, deck out in my red blouse and red sparkly necklace and red dress from Goodwill, the long flowing one with gold thread embroidery. Warm sweatshirt and trousers and knapsack and scarf, rainproof clogs, water jar, 2 bananas and almonds, one quart of hot succotash soup kept warm in a towel, toilet paper roll for all the bus passengers who will be sneezing helplessly and don’t carry tissues, Slavonic prayer book, rosary, red head scarf for church, rain slicker, reflective vest, and hand-crank flashlight. Onward!

The Bus 1 driver looks me over and says “That’s some assortment of gear. Goin’ camping?” He and the passengers are bantering around in the holiday spirit. It always pays to sit in the first seat and greet the driver; they’ve seen so much human nature that they always have something interesting to say. He lets me off at the transfer intersection for Bus 2, next to my favorite open-air fruit stand. The staff are working like crazy today loading cut fir trees into cars. They can use a little extra nourishment, so the succotash soup is for them. They shout their hellos and thanks, and I head on to the stop for Bus 2.

Then again, why not skip the bus and just walk the 20 minutes to Rachel’s intersection. The exercise will do me good.
Here’s the church. Vespers is absolutely beautiful. Perhaps for Mary’s feast today? Or no, they’re Julian calendar, so they wouldn’t be celebrating Immaculate Conception today, would they? At least they wouldn’t call it that; that’s a Papal Infallible idea from 1854. Oops. Well, whatever they’re celebrating, it’s very grand; Father even comes out from behind the Royal Doors to paint a cross on all our foreheads with chrism of rose petals. Then I cut out early, and start walking to Rachel’s party.

It’s a soft misty evening. The streets are full of people! Full! Teenagers on skate boards, couples hand in hand, parents with babies and stroller tots, dogs in Santa hats or jingle bells or twinkle light harnesses. They’re in a great mood, hurrying to the lakeside.
Now to find the house.
Straight ahead at the intersection, then the few short blocks…. Or maybe not so short. Maybe it’s just a few more. Is it the next one? One after? Are we there yet?

Huh… Ought to be around here somewhere. I’m losing my bearings. Better double back.
Right. Here’s the church again. That map said to go straight ahead here. Couldn’t be simpler. La la la, la la…
Gosh.
Did I go too far? I’m forever doing that; walking too far and missing my street and getting lost.
I double back to the church again, this time walking on the other side of the main road to check all the street signs there with my flashlight.

Back at the main intersection I start calling out “Hello, folks, which way is [Maple] Street please?”
But they’re in a hurry to get to the lake, teens couples parents babies tots dogs jingles. Nobody has time to answer. I try a few groups, then a lone jogger (he has earbuds on, and just shakes his head). Three times people stop, but they’re all visitors to the light festival, and they don’t know the streets.

Finally here’s a motherly looking little lady strolling along. When I speak to her she looks distressed, even though I keep my distance and just ask for Maple Street.
“Sorry no no English please,” she tells me sadly.
“Oh, okay. What language do you speak?” I ask her. Because in America every single speaker of no no English, they can still answer that question, no problem.
Iran, Iran,” she shouts, raising her voice to help me understand, spreading her hands in abject apology like it’s a crater on the moon.
“Ah! Khosh amadid! Khosh vakhtam,” I shout back. “Beguid lotfan, khiaban-e MAPLE koja-e?” Welcome! Happy to meet you. Tell please Street Maple where is?
She’s thrilled. Not that “Maple” rings a bell, but at least we have a nice time exchanging many good wishes. Health! Happiness! Khoda Almighty preserve you!

Finally a teenage boy sets me straight. Dude! “Maple?? Nah, it’s way the other way. I know for sure because on Bus 2 that’s the stop where they announce Maple. Gotta follow this road all the way back, by the lake. That’s Maple.”
Really? Are my map reading skills that bad? Oh man.
Start over. Continue past the church going the other way, on and on, and — the kid’s right. Here’s Maple way down here! Now just look for the address.
But it’s a lot of house numbers away from here. Up the hill. Where are the numbers on the houses? Still quite a ways to go. Is the street supposed to curve this much? Maybe I was supposed to veer off on one of these sidestreets.
It’s so dark I hand-crank my flashlight and shine it around. And holy mackerel — just ahead, the sidewalk’s all buckled from a tree root. Without the flashlight I’d have fallen right over it!

(Navigation note: Later, back home again, wrapped in a down comforter with a cup of hot miso soup, I check the map again and see the problem. Maple crosses the main road twice in a long loop. And both times, both ends, if only I knew, I got within one block of Rachel’s house. One block.)

All of a sudden the streets are deserted. Emp-ty. EVERYbody must be at the lake. I’m over an hour late. Any normal person would call Rachel for directions. But see, I have a terrible time not only reading maps, but following directions. On the street I can see where people point, but if people tell me over the phone I get all turned around. Maybe a look at mapquest.com will help. I pull out my cell phone to enter the address. But now it’s raining. To protect the phone I have to pull my slicker hood way over my head and put the phone inside it to read the screen. But a popup ad blocks that part of the map, letting me know that the mapquest phone app is available for download to my phone. Wha?

There are really no people around. The houses are dark. Not good. My hand joints are getting too stiff to hold the phone. In fact — now the swipe screen won’t work; my fingers are too cold or maybe too wet to activate it. I double back to the church, an hour and a half late for a two hour party. Calling Rachel now and expecting her to drop everything and give me directions would look forward and foolish, wouldn’t it? Just so I can show up at the end and then turn around and leave?

Now I’m catching a chill. It’s the rheumatic kind that won’t warm up no matter how much I hop around, and the only answer is to go home and lie down. Plus there are little needle pains shooting through my feet. It dawns on me that I am not getting to this party. At all. I stop a mother and daughter and say “Help! Where is Bus 2?”
They laugh and walk me back down Maple to the stop and wish me a good night.

Two college students are waiting at the stop, looking anxious. “Do you know where Bus 2 goes?” they ask me.
So I hand them my spare bus schedule and describe the whole linear route in detail. (Of course, all I had to do was open the schedule and let them READ THE MAP. But that only dawned on me now.) They’re happy to hear about it. “Then it’s just the bus we need!”
We stand and watch the crowd pour past us away from the lake, talking over what a great time they had at the luminaria festival.
The students are conferring about the candle splashes on their jeans. “How do ya get wax out of a pair of pants?”
“Ice,” I tell them. “Put on an ice cube until the wax cracks. Flake it off.”
“Really?” they ask me.
“Dunno. It was in my mom’s home ec book. Also, if you ever spill red wine on a carpet or somewhere, quick sprinkle on some salt but without wiping or scrubbing the wine; the salt is supposed to neutralize the pigment. I don’t know whether that works either. A couple who know their wine told me that, and I never see any wine in their carpet.”
So we joke around, and they show me their phone photos of the light festival, and we catch the bus.

Back at the transfer stop I pop in to the fruit stand to pick up my Mason jar. The store is already closed. But my favorite cashiers are so tired they’re sitting on the counter, swinging their feet and chatting. “Your soup looks awesome, but we haven’t tried it,” they apologize. “We didn’t stop running all day.” But it’s an open air shop, so the jar will stay nice and cold. Tomorrow they’ll heat it in the microwave and have it for lunch. Meanwhile they wish me a good night. As they roll down the doors and turn off the lights I go to the bus stop and eat a banana.

A group of teenage boys carrying skateboards pass by. They give a curious up and down look back at me. One of them points and mutters a comment, and they hop on their skateboards and sail off. Too late, I realize what he said: “That’s what I need, a reflective vest. I’d be safer in one like that.” It’s too bad; I’d have called them back and told them just where to buy one.

I take out my toilet paper roll and start sneezing helplessly. On Monday everyone will be talking about the party. I really wanted to go too. Really did. I’m sad about all the times I’ve set out to find something or join some group and couldn’t figure out how to get there or how to find them. What’s wrong with me?

Bus 1 is 40 minutes late. There’s not a soul on the street. The rain is really coming down. I’m shivering hard, standing under the awning to the chiropractic clinic, hoping the placebo effect of their neon sign will warm me up. Across the street, the big trademark sign of the antique shop swings on support chains; it’s a grinning Genie in Aladdin’s lamp, casting swoopy shadows in the wind. My hands can’t handle the prayer book pages now. So I take out the rosary and pray the Luminous Mysteries instead, then sing part of Orthodox Vespers arranged by Rachmaninoff: Отче наш, иже еси на небесех

Here comes a man walking toward the stop. He looks cold too.
He tells me in Spanish about his life, and many troubles. Looking for work, a cousin with a car, changing one house for another, a passport, leaving La Paz, trying to get back to La Paz again. The story winds in and around itself, plaintive and sincere, repeating rhythms like the rain on the awning.
I listen and nod. Sure. Things happen, all right.

“Then,” he concludes, nodding his head in reverence, “God the Father kissed me.”

He points to his forehead. “Two times, here. Dos besos, dos veces.” He tells it to me again and again, gravely and carefully, making sure to get the point across: this is not Jesus we’re talking about, but God the Father himself, the Almighty.
I look up at the rain, trying to imagine. “Aun UNA vez es algo enorme. Pero DOS…!” Even ONE time is something enormous. But TWO!
“Oh, this was two times,” he assures me. “Right here. And he said ‘I LOVE you. You are special to me. Porque TU eres de la gente humilde.” Because YOU come from the humble people.
La gente humilde. Well… yes. If God is going to pick out someone to talk to, that is the kind of person he would pick.
The two of us think that over, under the neon awning, while the Genie on high swings in chains still grinning.

The bus shows up and pulls over. “Had enough camping?” says the driver.
The man from La Paz walks back the way he came, into the rain.

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12/25: Near-Hymn for Viola

At our Catholic church, the liturgy committee was ready to be relevant for the Now Generation.

In the early 1970s, they sponsored some progressive touches. Some innovations even raised eyebrows and heated debate at the local bakery, where the congregation always bolted afterwards for crumpets and stollen. We had a Youth Choir with guitars, a chaperoned activities group, and even an avant garde multi-media event that really raised the bar: music with slides of peaceful landscapes on a projector screen in front of the altar!

One year on the first Sunday of Advent, a young man showed up with a music case. [Instead of broadcasting his name here in hyper-public space without permission, let’s give him a proper Christian pseudonym. How about Philotheus?] He took out a violin, but didn’t call it a violin; he called his a viola. We’d never seen one before. It looked a little larger, with a deeper wistful amber tone.

Anyway. During Communion, Father and the congregation and Choir were busy processing up the aisle thinking of the Body of Christ, as they should have been. In the five minutes of silence when nobody was looking, Philotheus picked up his viola and played an instrumental solo.

That might not sound dramatic now. Today a few keystrokes in the comfort of home can summon festive accompaniment for any taste: tablatures, neumes, shape notes, instrumental tutorials, ethnomusicology footage, broadcasts of real time celebrations round the world, Black Nativity, Celtic Woman, Maccabeats, George Winston, Appalachian Sacred Harp, the un-unplugged fuse-blowing Trans-Siberian Orchestra. But back then, we had seven TV channels. At their best they offered Nat King Cole, the Mormon Tabernacle Choir, Bing Crosby, and the Kingston Trio. We had the King Family, Mitch Miller, Charlie Brown, Herbie the would-be dentist and the island of misfit toys. AM Radio had popular novelties with kids asking Santa for two front teeth, kids who saw him kissing Mommy, three cartoon chipmunks, three Stooges, Snoopy and the Red Baron, Bobby “Boris” Pickett and the Crypt-Kickers, carol-barking dogs, and a few years later the reindeer who ran over Grandma.

In all that racket, the piece for viola fell among us as the opposite of noise. We faithful, queueing for our Sacrament with fingers folded underchin in little steeples, whiplashed around to gape at our guest musician. That melody circled us in poignant elegance, a silver koi a-flash through yearning hands to its own silver sea. This is why young people benefit, when they see other people using technique and craft to create wondrous things. To my melancholic high school juniorette heart, it was a wonder altogether new, that strings on wood could speak and sigh and murmur and implore the Maranatha — Come O Lord, the very voice of Advent. After that service I trailed along behind Mom and Dad to the family car and zoned out of their conversation, clutching in my frail musical recall the 9 note fragment that remained (fa-mi-fa so, fa mi-re-do# re). I held on to it all week, having no idea how to ever find that song again or how to find performers who are not performing, people who commune their music straight from the cosmos and back again.

On the second Sunday of Advent, to my happiness, Philotheus was back with his instrumental solo for viola. This time, it was even more beautiful and heartbreaking than I remembered. This is partly because our soloist knew more than 9 notes. It is also because he fingered in graces and airs to show all the equally heartbreaking chords, much as prayer flags on a Himalayan snowpeak show the zephyrs in the sky. This time after Communion instead of kneeling down in my parents’ pew where I belonged, I beelined to the Choir and whispered Philotheus a question. He was kind enough to whisper back the answer. Eureka! Now the koi had a name for a net. By the way, you can hear the string part yourself, at 1:52, halfway through this version here. But it won’t be the same. You just had to be there, looking out on snowy fields in a candle lighted sanctuary wrapped in pine and fir, with a gleam-haired youth alone in the corner plaiting pathos to the rafters.

On the third Sunday of Advent, the one day of the year when priests don delightful pink vestments and kindle the pink candle of the Advent wreath, Philotheus played his rose-colored song. At around that time, someone in the congregation might have applied enough musical literacy to name that tune. A misty recollection hints that someone raised a concern: what makes a hymn a hymn? Can even a rock song with secular lyrics be used as a liturgical piece? It may be sheer coincidence, but after that discussion in the crumpet-stollen crowd I can’t recall that Philotheus had a post in the church repertoire any more. I do recall that for Communion our Youth Choir premiered their upbeat “Gospel Changes,” more famously covered by John Denver.

Down through the decades, each December I slip in to services of every kind. There are costume pageants and brass quintets, handbells and harpists and Handel, Klezmer and dim sum, megachurch altar calls, a capella improv by gleeful erudite Gay men. But for Advent’s very sigh and murmur and lamentation, nothing else resounds through time like the understated voice in strings that so consoled a random adolescent girl.

Respected Philotheus, Hello!
Here is overdue thanks for your playing. I hope it found appreciative ears in the wider world. [P.S. – It sure did. I just googled his real name. And there he was, violist for a symphony orchestra. He even emailed me back!]
I wish our small sincere and aiming-for-progressive franchise of Rome had said “Yes, that is ‘Sad Lisa,’ by Cat Stevens. And just WHO is it hurting? The lad has reverence and talent. In his hands and from his heart, this is a hymn for souls in darkness turning to salvation’s Light. Hush now; let’s hear him play.”

These days at the Saturday farmers’ market I edge under the main canopy out of the rain, set up shop between puddles, and play bowed psaltery for the farm families and shoppers and their children, some of them melancholic teens. The warmup song is always yours. Merry Christmas!

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12/22: Liftoff

The hospital had an old mental health annex.

You could get there walking uphill from the commuter rail, through oak trees and a footbridge over the river and across the main road. The annex had high narrow windows and echoing corridors and heavy slamming doors and checkerboard inlaid floor. Inside you’d expect nightshirted Irish orphans on crutches, and Sisters in batwing wimples skimming along with bandages or baguettes. But instead there were just the patients. They were weatherbeaten men sitting on the steam radiators, smoking; or the same men drinking from paper bags on the steps and shouting in English or Spanish about events in their outer or inner world.

We weren’t patients, though. We were visitors who slipped in on Saturday mornings, staking out the front parlor that looked out on the hospital incinerators. I was a newbie, attending for only ten years; the other older timers attended for years before me. None of us was a founding member, so nobody knew how many years the group had been meeting here, or how they ever discovered the annex or took over the room. In those 520 Saturdays, no mental health employee or police officer on guard ever stopped us to ask who we were. Once or twice the patients, who noticed everything, said “What the hell are you lot doing in a dive like this?” and I’d say “We’re learning how to play bridge.” That made perfect sense to them. Before long “Bridge Club” is what they called us.

Bridge Club was really a 12 step group. This was not one of your big famous groups with a history and Book. It was a newer spinoff for people who’d had the carpet pulled out from under and were starting over from somewhere sub zero. We had a basket of Conference-approved literature with a preamble. We took turns being the group leader. But somehow the basket kept ending up in this person’s car trunk or that person’s laundry room. So we’d make up our own opening, with all of us chiming out the lines we remembered or thinking up phrases that felt meaningful (Words from Unity, Kahlil Gibran, the Barney Show) until we reckoned that the meeting was open for sharing already.

Meeting time was 9:00 to 10:30 on the button. This clear boundary was useful. That way the people terrified of being in groups could show up at 10:25. The people who were terrified of the Serenity Prayer, or any prayer anywhere ever again, could leave at 10:26. The one with claustrophobia could show up at 10:40 in the parking lot as we said goodbye, because she wanted to meet outdoors and not spend one more Augenblick of life in (quote) The Nut Bin. One new member needed desperately to talk and for once be finally heard all the way through; it impressed her to know that the meeting ended at 10:30, because then our staying and listening meant something extra and special. That meeting ended at 5:00 when the hall lights turned off; we groped our way out in a human chain through clammy smoke-filled halls over the checkerboard tiles.

Some of us wanted to pull down all the shades so no one could spy on us. Others of us needed to pull the shades up so we could see any intruders before they climbed in. Some had to turn the lights off, or turn them on, or open the door, or keep it closed. (Can we unlock that window? Is there a draft in here?) People brought their dogs, but only once or twice because the topics made the pets curl up and whine. We brought stuffed animals and dolls and set them up in their own little meeting with their own chairs. We brought quilts to crochet and coffee in styrofoam and dandelions and musical instruments and press clips and photo albums and art projects. At my very first meeting, on Christmas Eve, our baker member brought cookies the size of frisbees loaded with chocolate chips and nuts, and we ate them until they were gone.

But most of all the members just kept talking.
They started out telling life stories that no news anchor would ever dare to touch. But over the years, each person started bringing some plan or idea, and then went out and tried out their idea or plan, and then came back next week to tell us how it went. So step by step the one with anorexia opened a health restaurant. The one who couldn’t get off the couch ran a marathon and became a personal trainer. The one with agoraphobia learned how to drive, saved up for a little car, and took off to see the country. The one stressed to tears by her phone operator job ended up running agricultural trade shows in China. The one afraid to talk ran for office and won an election. Everybody invented a life, and they graduated one by one. Then there was only me, and that was the end of our club.

Years after on a windswept Christmas Eve I had business in town and was walking to the commuter rail. The annex didn’t even cross my mind until its obsolete nondescriptness loomed up from the drear. The same pigeons and the same straw wrappers were still milling around. But the patients were gone. The lights were out. The windows were closed, except a broken one to keep that draft going. The doors were padlocked and chained. In the rising wind and falling light, the rain leached out incinerator soot and pigeon twigs and the life stories of people who could hardly crawl out of bed. Like Ishmael, I was the only one left to remember. Bridge Club deserved a plaque in remembrance, cave drawing, notches in the door, something. But no trace was left but a little placard I’d never noticed before. You had to step close to read the battered festively sad little message Flower Deliveries to the Rear.

I turned to the street.
And right there, silent, waiting behind me was one dozen Canada geese.
I backed off to keep from startling them, and walked away.
The geese fell in behind, all dozen, plodding in a line.
I turned and showed them my hands. “Nothing here to feed you.”
They looked up at me.
I kept walking.
They fell in again.
At the eight-lane main road, known affectionately as Death Row for its careening ambulances and defectively short WALK sign, I stomped and waved them away. “Go back now, be safe. You can’t cross here! You’ll get hurt.”
They hedge-hopped right over it all and waited in the oak trees on the river side, then followed me over the bridge and waited in a silent semi-circle near my feet.

The train pulled in.
The geese took off, circled once for altitude, and headed for the water. The car was empty; I got on and took a seat. A fairy tale edged into mind, something with twelve brothers turned to swans, and if only their sister can weave them twelve shirts it will break the spell so they can come home from the sky again.

My dozen brothers disappeared above the trees. Just then, a shaft of early-setting sun struck the clouds, shaking loose a flurry of snow. As we pulled away, the flakes fell in hexagonal blossoms: Bridge Club’s first and last delivery of flowers.

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11/22: Bell for the Feast-Day (Праздничный колокол)

When it comes to spiritual things, there are two popular views.

1. Life is working out the way I want. Therefore, God (karma, The Secret, fill in the blank) really likes me!
2. Life is harsh, and people behave badly. Therefore, God does not exist.
And in BBC Sherlock “A Scandal in Belgravia,” Mycroft eloquently offers, “All hearts are broken. All lives end. Caring is not an advantage. Sherlock.”

Still, among the ended lives and broken hearts there is sometimes something going on.
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The first time I saw Seraphim, and the last time, and most times between, he was surrounded by a squadron of people who loved him.

The squadron commander-in-chief was Seraphim’s mother, a petite soft-spoken scientist and artist with a modest gray braid of hair. Her bright smile, uncommonly lively eyes behind their spectacles, and a long elegant mundshtuk cigarette holder, called to mind the bright wartime tenacity in photographs of FDR.
She brought me home from church to dinner, and gave me a tour of the family home business, its mail-order/website computer and production studio for relatives and apprentices.
I was impressed that the family’s traditional Russian artwork included crushed gems as a pigment.
“Gems?” I exclaimed. There were many perfectly valid options readily available at lower prices.
“Beauty,” she said, raising her hands. “To last for centuries.
At dinner I bit in to a delectable beef cutlet full of fresh herbs and greens, while her whole troop of Moscow doctors and scientists start talking at the same time. Their dining conversation was like a rainbowed waterfall, chrysanthemum fireworks, the bubble machine from the Lawrence Welk Show. One would produce some fresh independent thought or fact, and the others would charge in and whack the velvet from its antlers. They argued with zest about the radiation levels emitted by the microwave on the counter, about the species of a bug that flew in from outdoors, about the best way to sheetrock a wall. One actually dropped his fork and leaped up from the table to prove a point by running for a dictionary entry to show us a word — not just any dictionary, mind you, but the Brokgaus-Efron, published in St. Petersburg in the late 1800s in 84 volumes. (His might well have been only the condensed version, 43 volumes. But they sure took up space in the living room.) When they asked me some question about Catholic culture, I gave an example from the Daniel Day-Lewis movie My Left Foot. Instantly they turned on Seraphim’s good-humored brother (who was eating dinner with his right arm in a sling), and began improvising a comedy film about his life called His Left Hand.

Seraphim’s mother had an idea.
“We have a manuscript ready to publish,” she said to me. “How would we do that here?” She described the research that Seraphim gathered and wrote starting at age 16. It was an esoteric yet spiritually beneficial reference work for Russians at home and abroad. (Later, his parents published it on the family website.)
I confessed to knowing nothing about publishing. But the idea sounded wonderful. During our group brainstorm session I was ready to ambush her son with admiring questions until he got in one soft word edgewise.
“Mama,” said Seraphim. “Leave it in peace already. Please, Mama. It’s America: nobody needs it.”
The pain in his eyes stopped us short. Then the family went on talking about anything and everything else.

Seraphim’s father, a tall lean gentle-eyed computer programmer with square shoulders and a sweetly prophetic-looking beard, turned to me. He expressed his deepest condolences on our American national problem, talking “o glaukome,” About Glaucoma.
The family chimed in, recalling what they were all doing the day the historic news bulletin came o glaukome, and its devastation here in the States.
One asked me, “How has this terrible problem changed your worldview as a U.S. citizen?” Then they paused respectfully, waiting for my response.
I looked at their compassionate expressions. In halting Russian I thanked them for their heartening concern, and confessed that I had not earned their kindness because this problem had no impact on me personally. I admitted that we Americans still relied mainly on early intervention by medical specialists.
The family paused, tactfully thanked me for sharing, and moved right along to other matters.
(That night, drifting off to sleep at home, my subconscious mind kept fretting:
o glaukome, o glaukome, o glaukome, oglaukomeoglaukomeoglaukome = OKLAGOMA! I sat bolt upright in bed. They were referring in Russian to the terrible disaster in Oklahoma City. And what reply did they get out of me? 1. Oh well — it does not affect me personally, and 2. any victims should have gone to medical specialists SOONER. Woe is my non-native ear! No wonder my lack of empathy left these hospitable people at a loss for words.)

Somehow, they kept talking to me anyway.
On Sundays, the family gathered after church for coffee hour in the parish hall. Sometimes Mama would wave me over to join their little enclave. When their conversation grew especially spirited and witty, Seraphim would glance over to check that I’d followed the Russian and got the joke; once I did, he’d laugh too. What struck me then and now about Seraphim (which is not his name, but means “fire angel” and so comes close) was the geometry of his mind. On one plane, he clearly enjoyed the constant fanfare of his loyal kith and kin. On another level, during their banter and debate he would sit back and attend to minute details that no one else seemed to notice. Most of all, on a third dimension he was always tuned in to some rarefied frequency, an implicit communion that engaged his awareness so deeply that everyday speech was simply not the coin of his realm.

At the end of Lent at Passion Friday, the figure of Christ in a brocaded shroud is processed with candles around the church and then laid to rest in the sanctuary. Then the congregation members take turns keeping Him company all night long, chanting the Psalms until morning. A devout Russian couple and I signed up so we could cover a late shift together. They warned that a newcomer like me must not undertake the Passion Friday prayer in a night church all alone; the vigil is so powerful that unhappy spiritual forces might try to disrupt it. Back in Russia, they knew of cases where the unprepared solitary chanter was beset by supernatural sights or sounds. Then one had to be a very brave stalwart soul, to stand fast under this kind of tribulation and keep the prayer going until dawn.

Long after midnight we finished our turns with the Psalms, and stayed on to pray in silence.
Then Seraphim walked in, alone and clan-less. At the reader’s candle he read the Psalms not in English or in Russian but in liturgical Church Slavonic. (I’ve just checked my journal for that year. It states that he recited the Psalms from memory, as the monks do on Mount Athos.) Slavonic was devised as a Scriptural language, not a spoken one; but his chanting rose pure and straight from his heart to the cupola windows of black sky and stars, in the scent of incense and beeswax and rose oil, in the flickering shadows and eyes of portraited saints. Anyone could see it: this at last was his time and space, his mother tongue, his true voice, his own words of penitential lamentation ringing out as if he’d saved them up all his life.

Then Great Saturday struck midnight into Paskha. After the night’s vigil, in the dark before dawn I put on headphones to watch as our bell ringer wrought massive plaits of sound (do, mi, so, do) from the four bells. Then he went downstairs. But I lingered in the loft awhile with the echoes in the night breeze. By tradition the lineup of Russian church bells, like horses in a race, each have a name; the largest lowest bell of all is the Festive or the Feast-Day Bell, rung to mark the grandest occasions. Our great bell was a spirited temperamental creature. Our ringer showed me how the footstroke had to be very strong, yet glancing — instantly withdrawn, to clear the first vibration; with any hesitation on impact, the sound was like two colliding subway cars. That night when nobody was looking I worked my shoe into the bell’s foot pedal sling, just testing the feel; for months I’d dreamed of ringing for the service myself. (Only now does that dear irony dawn on me: a person easily lost and unheard in social gatherings yearns to play an acoustic instrument audible to everyone for three miles around. What next? Lighthouse foghorn?)

Downstairs, the congregation was singing the most radiant hymn for the most radiant moment of their year:
An angel cried
To the Lady full of grace
Rejoice O Pure Virgin…
in the Resurrection of your Son.

Then, Seraphim’s mother had an idea.
“Oh, in the loft,” I heard her say to someone on the stairs. “Let’s go greet her…. Khristos voskrese! Christ is risen!” she called out.
Khristos voskrese!” I wished her and Seraphim.
Voistinu voskrese, Truly he is risen,” he replied.
They exchanged with me the traditional three kisses. Hers were hearty and exuberant. His were careful and grave and profound.
It’s easy to look back through the years and claim that his small gesture marked the end of one season and beginning of another. But it did.

After that springtime, a simple cough led Seraphim through a cycle of doctors and tests.
I took the commuter train to a town near his, and stumbled over railroad tracks and weeds to the Catholic hospital. Seraphim was in a room with four elderly men behind little curtains, all of them coughing. He was on oxygen, connected to various wires and tubes. His two young daughters were spending summer vacation here with Dad. The girls were making Get Well cards. They adapted effortlessly to hospital life, deftly crawling under and through the wires and tubes so they could curl up beside him, fluffing his pillow and stroking his hair.

Seraphim’s mother had an idea.
“Sit, sit; have some tea,” she offered happily, quitting the room despite my protests and heading for the cafeteria to bring a cupful back for me.
Her son and I looked at each other. I wondered a little late whether dropping in without notice was all right with him or not.
Kak tvoe zdorov’e? How is your health?” he asked me. That’s when he switched from formal to informal address with me, and first started using my Russian nickname.
Khorosho, slava Bogu,” I said. Fine, Glory to God.
“Today N___ came to the house,” one of the girls told us, naming a talented apprentice who took lessons at the studio; Mama’s students came to learn, but they ended up becoming one of the family. “And do you know what happened next? For dinner she even cooked us LAMB.”
“Lamb? That’s wonderful. Very kind of her.” He was in no shape to be eating lamb or anything else at the moment, but he looked happy. Lamb — imagine! His eyes were laughing as he looked over at me. “Agnus?”
“Sorry?” I asked him, pulling the chair right up to the bed; his voice was barely audible.
“Lamb. Agnus.” He took a careful deeper breath and inched himself higher. “Agnus Dei, qui tollis peccata mundi; miserere nobis.” Lamb of God, who takes away the sins of the world: have mercy on us.
“Oh! How did you learn that??”
He nodded toward a book on the table.
I picked it up. A complete old-time bilingual Missal! The kind we used to see at Mass, with black crinkle-leather covers and gilt-edged pages and silk marker ribbons in red and green and gold. Many Orthodox people in good conscience have expressed to me their hurt and sorrow over the Roman Papist schism and its heretic views. But here he was, reading this!
Later his mother told me about it. At a garage sale he recognized the book right away, and pounced to buy it. Then when he entered the hospital, a nurse offered a visit from the chaplain, not for the Sacraments but simply for company. Seraphim first asked his mother to bring his Missal. He spent his hospital stay studying until he felt suitably prepared. When the priest stopped by, he found an Orthodox patient speaking Missal Latin, for the first time since who knows what bygone age.

It’s just as well that the hospital offered chaplain services; certainly on my two visits there I saw no sign of any medical personnel actually interfering with the patients in that room. Judging by his mother’s extended absence that first evening, it was all my fellow Schismatics could do, to obtain water with a teabag. But in no time, contacts at church turned up a bed at the main research hospital in the city. After that, his care moved very fast. Slender and fair by nature, Seraphim lost his lovely blond hair and became thin and translucent as a lighted candle. On Sundays after the long Liturgy he would sit on the garden bench to rest in the sun.

By then our Ringer was away more often, so I had permission to harness up and ring the bells after Liturgy. With practice I worked out the regular ringing patterns for the services. Then before Liturgy and Vespers I started hovering on tiptoe, waiting for them to pick me to go do the ringing.

But somehow they’d always pick someone else. Even if the someone else had never rung before. Even if the someone else looked very doutbtful about stepping outside in wind-driven sleet to sort out ropes and tongues.

So, I kept practicing on Sunday afternoons. And each time for the finale I’d play a long 4-note arrangement of “Night Rolls In” by Al Stewart.

Maybe that was the problem. At the time I didn’t know that Orthodox ringers draw from a well-defined heritage of intricate regional and seasonal patterns; they studiously avoid melody as a Western affectation. Perhaps the Hierarchy has a Decorum Hotline, and some anonymous tipster within 3-mile earshot dropped a dime to report rock anthems in the loft?

At any rate, after practice I’d come down to the garden.
“Nice,” Seraphim would always say. “And when will you ring for service?”
“The minute they let me,” I always assured him. “They haven’t yet.”
“You just keep practicing,” he assured me. “I’ll be here listening. One day I’ll hear you.”

Late in a cold autumn we had one inexplicable summer day. In the church garden, bronzed oaks rustled under the deep blue sky. White butterflies tumbled over red and white clover; forsythias and dandelions bloomed out of season.
In the loft I finished “Night Rolls In,” humming the words as I ran downstairs (And now the world in all its works and ways / Grays on novembering days; a fire still glows that once was a rose a long time ago…).
In the garden, the dynasty of Moscow scientists and doctors brought their cake and coffee and crowded round Seraphim’s bench to discuss his treatment plan: research protocols, experimental studies, laboratory tests, internet and journal articles, phone calls to specialists and colleagues here and at home.
Mama had an idea. “Propolis!” she greeted me. “What can you tell us?”
“There’s some in my toothpaste,” I said. “Comes from bees. Said to have healing antiseptic properties. But, I haven’t read the research.”

Meanwhile, the family children played in the grass at Uncle/Dad Seraphim’s feet. The youngest gripped his pants leg to practice standing. The toddlers frisked the dandelion fluffclocks into the air while the girls braided gold blossoms in a wreath for his shoulders.
Seraphim looked over at me and opened his thumbs to signal his usual question. What? No bells for service?
I turned up my hands in a shrug. There will be. When they say so.
Mama summed up the family’s consensus on the next phase of treatment.
Seraphim listened, nodding with respect at all her projects and plans for success. Then he caught my eye across the flowers and the sunlit lawn, and winked. What do we know, really?

One night, the family held an anointing service at the church. For once they came in silence, hands on Seraphim’s back, getting him a chair before the altar.
As a Catholic I’d seen this sacrament as routine consolation for any parishioner who felt like coming up after Mass for a brief prayer, absolution, reassurance, and a blessing with the sign of the cross in oil. But none of that prepared me for this. Seraphim’s anointing, like his cancer therapy, was an act of war.

The ritual was harrowing in length and complexity, an arduous program of Psalms, prayers, and Scriptural readings before seven different anointings with chrism and wine on brow, cheeks, hands, and over the heart. As the service marched on Seraphim stood at resolute attention, shirt open in the drafty sanctuary, husbanding each breath, summoning all his strength. The captain of the family ship knelt beside her son, absolutely straight and motionless. The wind rose, moaning at the cupola windows of black sky and stars while his people with their candles called down forgiveness and mercy, forging links of promise and prayer from heaven to earth.

A season or two later he and I met again, after Liturgy.
For the first time, he approached me and initiated a conversation. He looked solid and substantial now, with a new head of short fine hair grown darker. “Masha! You haven’t been to church in months! Why? Did you give up on the bells?”

Yes, I had. The parish children had discovered bell ringing. Now the loft was teeming with willing volunteers. They didn’t wait around to be called or chosen; they just flocked upstairs before every service. As it happened, bell-ringing had been the last in my series of attempts to fit in with the congregation. But despite the hospitality of the priest and choir director and their families, the parishioners could never seem to classify me at all. Finally I started taking long Sunday morning walks on the river instead. “I just haven’t found a place here,” I confessed.
“But neither have I.” His soft eyes were concerned but reproachful. “Ringing, though. Can’t give up on that.”
“Well, they’re not going to ask me. Are they.”
I’M asking, Masha,” he said. “Come back. I’m waiting to hear you ring at service.”

I was away from church walking on the river a few weeks, and wasn’t there to see the clan bring him in to Liturgy. This time they fixed a pallet and oxygen tank for him on the carpet. The whole congregation knelt down at his side one by one to ask his forgiveness. He asked for theirs, and blessed each one of them. Days later someone mentioned it to me. I went right home to the telephone.

Seraphim’s father answered, and we exchanged greetings.
“They tell me Seraphim is not feeling well,” I dived in. “Please, is he there at home?”
His father contemplated the dimensions of the question and the answer. “Yes, he is right here.”
“May I speak to him?”
Father pondered some more, lining up the words of the reply as gently as possible.

So it is that some day, in the Book of Life, we will read about this father. There will be a page about him there, illuminated in crushed gems. It will state for the record that a man who had just lost his 33-year-old son and was sitting vigil beside his body thanked a caller for thinking of his family, and inquired about her health.

Before the funeral, a choir member was picked to toll the bell.
I ran up to him. “Have you rung before?”
“Why no,” he said.
“They want the bass bell, the Great Feast. To ring it, you have to pull back instantly on the foot stroke as soon as you hit it, or it will only crash instead of ringing. Or… I can do it.”

That day there were so many people arriving, so much to do, so much for the choir to think about, that at last — “Go on,” they said. “And hurry.”

I ran to the great Feast-Day, and roped my foot to the heavy pedal.
It tolled and tolled while the people came and filled the church. (Just this week on the anniversary of that day, Seraphim’s father emailed to thank me. He remembered, over 20 years later, that I was the ringer for Seraphim’s service. And what a beautiful word he used for it: otpevanie, from ot = from/away, + pevanie from the verb to sing: the day we sang his son away.)
The worshippers paused at the casket to give Seraphim a last kiss in farewell. After they all did I went up behind the casket and touched his hair, and then went downstairs to sit on his garden bench.

After the service, his mother had an idea.
“We can take you in our car.” She took my hand. “Come with us.”
They were offering to share their seating for 6 hours in the funeral procession, find room for me at their hotel, feed me, and bring me back. But how could I go? For a journey like this, it seemed only right to let family go with family.

As they all stood conferring in a circle about the trip to the cemetery several states away, Seraphim’s daughter stepped to the center. She began to dance. She twirled on one foot while her lovely long blonde hair spun around her. Those girls had been awake all night. They were at their father’s side right from the start, and with him right at the end; when he was laid out in the sanctuary for the all-night vigil and reading of the Psalms, the girls kept vigil beside him until dawn while their Grandma took the midnight to dawn shift chanting the prayers. Now before a 300 mile drive and his monastery burial, one of them was taking a little break to twirl in a sunbeam.

During his last illness, Seraphim made sure that his daughters had a fresh flower in their bedroom every morning. He planted a lot of white lily bulbs outside their window, so the next spring the girls could look outside and see lilies rise from the ground to say “Khristos voskrese!” all in white petals. And, he built a little village for their bureau, the model train kind. It had fields and woods and cotton for clouds underneath with tiny star lights inside the houses. Knowing him, it probably had a church too right in the center. That way, later on if the girls woke up at night and felt afraid, they could look at the village and remember where their father went, preparing the way to make a nice home for them in one of God’s many mansions.

“Last night,” his daughter came close and looked up at me, “Grandma was chanting in the church while my sister and I went to sleep. But Grandma was so tired! Finally at 5:00, she fell asleep. Then everything was so quiet that I woke up. Oh no — the prayers! I jumped up and took the book and started chanting. I read and read until 8:00. Finally, I looked up at the dome windows at the sky. And do you know what happened next?”

Speechless I gazed at her. A young girl who kept awake and at watch with a candle in the dark at the body of her father; co-heiress of a village in the stars and lilies of the field. “Yes?”

“I was SURPRISED BY THE LIGHT,” she exclaimed, hands opening in air. And she went on dancing.

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10/14: Thanksgiving. Winthrop Beach, MA

Thanksgiving Day, 2004.

“There’s just the one bus for today,” frets the driver. “Goes around both the routes.”
“Both scenic routes for the same low fare?” I tell her. “What’s not to like!”
Her troubled look brightens right up. “You got it.”

So on the local bus she and I take a nice long quiet ride around the peninsula. Then, I mind the bus for her while she runs in to Sea Foam Cafe (lobster pots; wood shutters; climbing concrete kitten) and buys herself a bag of potato chips for Thanksgiving dinner.

The rain clouds are gone for now, leaving us a clear mild day.
In the center of town I hop out and walk.
Here’s the Street of Family-Owned Funeral Homes. On slack days, the guys provide car owners with auto painting & pinstripe services. Now here’s the Masonic Lodge / Odd Fellows Hall. Forsythia out of season blooms at Pleasant Park. The little fence around a maple tree is heaped with crushed iridescent-blue mussels. Spiked aloe vera is really antlers of driftwood coated with moss. A sapling bears yellow leaves, bright dots of lichen with tiny mouths, and new magenta buds peering right from the trunk. The town square’s war memorial, a statue of soldier with weapon, bears the unexpected slogan “Cuba!”: the war in mind here is the Spanish-American. The houses have real weather vanes, topped with gilt horses or gilt ships.

Near the white gazebo on the village green, masses of starlings tear up from the ground like one solid rending black veil. I settle by the swings for my dinner from home: baked brussels sprouts with mushrooms, baked yam, roasted chestnuts, apple, and Sunspire chocolate drops. At first bite, the bells ring noon. Everyone is indoors at their holiday dinner. On the streets there is not a car in sight. Everything is silent but a jubilant mockingbird, audible for half a mile around.

Down on the Point there are two views. One is dunes and sea. One is the Boston skyline and Logan airport, over sheltered bay with rocking rowboats champing at the bit. The water here is bright flat silver. Black clouds are massing for the next storm; I was soaked by one cloudburst early today leaving home, and might be soaked again soon. The sun is poised on the downswing, ebbing early. It picks out the sand grasses, bleached and salt-dried. It washes over them in tender translucent gold.

At the main beach I hop the seawall and hike out to the water.

Seeing its pale powder green tone, for once I understand what got into Mr. Crayola’s head, calling this Sea Green. The tide is far out. Orange seaweed lies like snake skin. The sand is tinged lavender with crushed mussels in indigoes and cobalts. I pick up a half shell to take home. Its shining curve is drilled through and through by some parasitic creature long gone. The damage at all the gnawed places brings out and burnishes the real nacre inside, white mother of pearl.

On Crystal Cove I step out over the water to hunker down on a concrete block over the storm sewer, completely hidden by tall reeds, wrapped in my khaki slicker. There are quiet sounds to learn here. One is wind, crisped in the waving rushes. One is the sound of duck-skimming: mallards choosing the muckiest puddles to run at, neck outstretched, beak low, nibbling at scum. One is low-flying Canada geese brushing their wings several feet over my head: each beat sounds like creaky leather, wrung fast and hard. A few feet away across the pond, the golf course is overrun with them, honking and flapping; seen through the grass they’re like a pilgrimage of Carmelites.

At last as a rain front settles in, it’s time to walk back to the Blue Line train. The little one-lane highway leaving the center of town is deserted. Under the Logan flight path it’s a long stretch of plain wetland with one little high-stepping white egret gleaming in the rain. The tall gold reeds look dingy today. But a close inspection of the plants shows that they are really just ridden with some sooty mold or scale. Some of the square plant cells are blackened by it, some are not. A checkered past! At close range, that overall dinginess forms a bright symmetrical mosaic.

Out in the open salt wind, all the wildflowers are dried and gone, and the landscape is plain fawn and gray. But the guard rail has caught and collected a layer of land flotsam, flung from cars. The styrofoam trays, hot-drink cups, and disposable plastic lobster bibs were good insulation for keeping out the wind and frost. With that weatherbreak, near the ground, there’s a whole separate habitat with its own palette of tints. Raking aside the debris I crouch down to duck under brambles for a better view. Under here there is still live goldenrod, gold briar leaves with scarlet rosehips, scarlet creeper vine, nightshade berries, bright barberries with reddening leaves, velvety crimson sumac, and yellow button flowers with feathery leaves smelling like bitter carrot.

So here’s Thanksgiving on the shoulder of the highway, squatting knee-deep in rubbish. But there’s such a lot to see and admire down here — somebody’s overlooked autumn, lost fall, recovered Indian summer. Who would have guessed? Under the frost line in phragmites and trash, tender and glowing all over again, a swatch of season that we thought was lost and gone.

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8/29: Soviet Russian Chechen Kyrgyz Uzbek Film: Пошли в кино!

Watching films at work is a great way to make a living. I did for five years, laughing and crying through movies, writing reviews for K-12 teachers on our department website, and showing the films in schools. I made my own copy of the reviews before leaving for a new city. (Good thing, too: when I left, the reviews were taken off the website.) Here are just a few old favorites, with more to come.

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And the Past Seems But a Dream: Children of Igarka
Мы из Игарки, “We are from Igarka,” 1988?

This is Volume 6 of the Glasnost Film Festival series available at The Video Project.
In 1987, some extraordinary senior citizens meet in Igarka for their 50th grade-school reunion. The celebration starts on their boat journey, as they gather as an impromptu choir. Later they reassemble in their old classroom for a high spirited lesson with their original teacher, to receive grades and banter for their old compositions! In 1937, the  children had written a collection of stories about their adventures in Igarka. Their story book found readers as far away as New York. (Today their book is gathering a wider readership and increasing interest, in several new editions with historical notes.) In the film, the surviving authors begin to explore their childhood as it really was. They saw their fathers marched off to the camps. Then mothers and children were taken and left in a region 163 kilometers north of the edge of the Arctic circle; of those who survived childhood, many served and died in the war. (Contemporary footage from the 1930s onward includes  starved haggard children determined to dance and play with their remaining strength. Another clip shows soldiers pulling a little cart with the torso of a comrade fallen in battle; his friends have propped him up with care in his uniform with clean handkerchiefs to cover one empty sleeve and his empty collar.) Now with the safety of decades passed, new political openness, and peer support, the classmates begin to share their feelings about the past. One man is moved to tears remembering his opportunity of a lifetime: an invitation to interview for Moscow University; but a harsh Arctic storm ruined his travel plan, and the Program selected another student instead. One cheerful woman mentions her family’s forced march away from their land, and is suddenly seized with anguish remembering how first the soldiers took from her even the skirt she was standing in. But in the end, the old friends make time to celebrate; at the farewell party, one even starts break dancing! “Igarka” is a beautiful story of childhood suffering and the power of safety and affirmation.

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Frank Capra’s The Battle of Russia
Fifth in the series Why We Fight, 1943

This was filmed to rally American support for the Soviet Union’s status as an ally in the War. (Apparently the film’s cordial tone toward the Soviet war effort raised some questions later under McCarthy.) Russians are described as being “very similar to the people of London,” as they mourn the destruction of “important military objectives, like the Russian Dumbo from the Leningrad Zoo.” The film juxtaposes actual footage with some recreated scenes, like an upbeat travelogue of nationalities waving and smiling in colorful costumes; or Leningraders after their 900 day siege, donning their own festive costumes to show us those clever folk dances. Toward the end, we are shown Moscow children celebrating Soviet “Christmas,” then holiday greetings from charming factory girls and exultant soldiers pausing at New Year’s midnight to wave and smile their “С Новым Годом. Огонь! — Happy New Year. Fire!” But the centerpiece here is extensive historic newsreel footage, effectively chosen and edited. As Government material in the public domain, the series is available for free download on line, and viewable here on YouTube. Could be useful in classroom discussions about the use of persuasive film in public service messages.

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Beshkempir: The Adopted Son.
In Kyrgyz, with English subtitles. 1998, Aktan Abdykalykov.

This is a gentle understated film about a young man coming of age in Kyrgyzstan. At first, Beshkempir is just another peer-pressured shy boy confronting adolescence with his friends. They steal a few eggs, tease the beehive, spy on Grandma’s leech cure in the bath-house, construct a woman out of clay to brainstorm how this whole honeymoon concept might work, then coax taciturn hardworking Dad to fork over the coin admission when the outdoor picture show comes to town. One day, Beshkempir catches the fancy of a neighbor girl. An envious boy retaliates by blurting out the news that Beshkempir is adopted. At the harsh revelation that he is not a literal descendant of his family’s ancestral lineage, struggling to find his own place in village life, he sets out on a lonely journey away from home and finds work as a fisherman. But the death of Grandma unites the village with her last wish: that they respect Beshkempir as her rightful grandson. In the community’s outpouring of grief over their matriarch, they give Beshkempir a homecoming and a place as chief mourner. Even stolid Dad breaks down and confides his past heartbreak at being unable to father a child: “We lost hope, but we found you.” The women’s keening funeral lament is a moving climax to the film. In the closing scene our hero rides off into the sunset with his hard-won dignity, riding his hard-won sweetheart on his bicycle.
The film is black and white, with occasional accents of color; the soundtrack is ambient sound with local birds and insects, with some folk instruments and vocals.

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Circus (Цирк), 1936, with Liubov Orlova.

Sis, who knows her cinema, was pleased to point out the innovative camera angles, cuts, and lighting which charm the eye even today.
This rollicking musical opens in Sunnyville, U.S.A., where a racist mob drives out a young mother and her adorable dark-skinned baby. (The child is played by three-year-old James Patterson, whose American father emigrated to Moscow for better job opportunities. After a distinguished career, Mr. Patterson eventually emigrated to the U.S.) Mom becomes a circus star, touring the Soviet Union as a singer shot from a cannon. But her promising career there is dominated by her jealous American producer, who holds her “race crime” as a blackmail threat. He reveals his villainous nature by swishing about in a black cape, pencil mustache, lacquered hair, and artificial inflatable muscles; he also spies on personal conversations and letters, and blusters in terrible Russian sprinkled with Germanesque English. In wholesome contrast, the blond white-clad Soviet hero is muscular, modest, and chivalrous. Among other comedy hijinks, the pratfall guy shows his simple-mindedness by attempting to lighten the baby’s complexion with a clean handkerchief. Otherwise, the child is joyfully welcomed by the circus audience of Red Army soldiers, sailors, factory workers, peasants, and representatives of many nationalities. They all laugh to scorn the American and his malicious gossip. Then, while bathing-beauty paratroopers form flower patterns with their tap shoes, the audience passes the delighted child from hand to hand, singing him promises of lifelong love, tender care, and racial equality in the USSR, all in their own native languages. Meanwhile, parading under banners of Lenin and Stalin, our hero and Mom march away singing the blockbuster hit, “Song about the Motherland (Широка страна моя родная, Wide is My Native Land).” Mom is overjoyed with her new life as a Soviet citizen. And why not? The Red Army and a dozen nationalities are back at her job, minding the kid.

For all of her 72 years, Liubov Orlova maintained her highest standards of health, beauty, and fashion. My late Russian godmother, born in 1929, loved to tell about Orlova’s very last public appearance. The fans raved about her ravishing charisma, unaware that the star of stage and screen had rallied all her energy for the greatest performance of her life: a lavish personal encore in her last days with pancreatic cancer.

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Revolt of the Daughters-in-Law, 1984. Director Melis Abzalov
Kelinlar qo’zg’oloni Uzbek title (Wikipedia link)
Бунт невесток, Uprising of the Brides
In Uzbek with perky synthesized pop soundtrack.

Grandma Farmonbibi is the loving reigning matriarch of the seven sons and 50-odd relatives in her courtyard household. Not all the dialogue makes it in to the English subtitles, and a lot of what did was adorably garbled in translation, but appealing moments do trickle through. The plot begins when Youngest Son brings home his bride, Nigora. Nigora wins the admiration of all the women with her “perfect manners” — three days of face-veiled hand-folded silence. Then comes the shock: the courtyard relatives catch her at morning calistenics, still fully veiled but in a leotard outfit. Next, “Sportwife Gymnast Girl” rocks everybody’s world by suggesting that Youngest Son pitch in with the dishes and shopping! To cap it all, Nigora reveals that she feels affection for her bridegroom: “If you want family to be unified, a wife should greet her husband like a HOLIDAY.” Grandma, nicknamed “State Calculation” for her keen eye and logical mind, is scandalized: “At her age, I hardly dared look at my husband.” But in time, ripples of this new attitude fan out to the other six couples. One older brother secretly turns himself in to the local police, begging for a night in jail: it’s his only chance at privacy from the family, to apply a hair-restoring creme turban in keeping with the mid-life renewal of mutual romance in his marriage. Another brother astounds his wife by inviting her to sit in his arms to enjoy the moonlight: “Dear, the frogs are croaking so delicate; thank God, you still love me!” Next, when the men are out of the house, Nigora teaches slimming calisthenics to a happy courtyard of trousered sisters-in-law. In this world gone mad, the shaken “State Calculation” confers with another local elder for guidance. He kindly advises her that times have changed since their own young days. At last, Matriarch Farmonbibi grants the two youngest lovebirds their wish, letting the two move to their own rooms to live happily ever after.
This romping generational period piece could strike some sympathetic chimes in quite a few cultures.

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Moscow Does Not Believe in Tears
Москва слёзам не верит, 1979

Three girls come to Moscow in 1958 looking for husbands, then compare notes 20 years later. The central character unexpectedly becomes a single mom, determined to keep and raise her own daughter. After years of hard work and loneliness, she carves a place as a professional woman to be reckoned with. Then on the commuter train she finds a special guy who can cook and clean and fight off young hooligans. In 1978 the film was a runaway hit. Single viewers even started taking the commuter rail in hopes of finding their own soulmate. Today its endearingly colorful characters and smart snappy dialogue are still popular with young Russians and their parents alike. Moscow may not stop for tears, but a girl’s best friend is still — other girls who stick together.

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Dans, Grozny dans (Dutch title)
The Damned and the Sacred (English title. Why? Why? There is nothing damned about the people in this film!)
Director: Jos de Putter, Netherlands, 2003.
Copenhagen Film Festival prize winner in 2003.
No mention in Wikipedia or movie sites. Maybe someone can explain that to me.
In Russian and Chechen with subtitles.

A splendid documentary showing the dance and vocal youth ensemble Daymokhk (= Fatherland) of Chechnya, and the mentorship of coach Ramzan Akhmadov and his wife. The heartbreak comes through in the sensitive choice of everyday detail and lyrical beauty: as the film begins, Coach and Mrs. Akhmadov look out the window at their war-torn city, hoping that the water truck can get through to them today; a girl returns to her ruined home and marvels at a tree blooming in the courtyard. The film builds the viewer’s awareness of just how much adversity is endured by this talented ensemble. The film is refreshingly free of intrusive voiceover commentary. Young people and adults communicate in respectful perceptive ways in sincerity, courage, and even self-deprecating humor. Highlights of the concert take on a transcendent loveliness as a pure affirmation of life; viewers of all ages can enjoy the choreography of the stately ethereal Lezginka, and the knife throw flourishes galore. In the wings before the show, Coach strokes the brow of each boy in blessing, then with a smile lets the girls pound his fist with theirs for good luck as they soar past him to the stage. These flashes of spontaneous rapport are the secret of Daymokhk, as one remarkable husband and wife sacrifice much of their own safety and wellbeing to keep these children. their spirits, and their culture alive.

___________________________
Prisoner of the Mountains (Кавказский пленник, Prisoner of the Caucasus), 1996
Director, Sergei Bodrov, Sr.; lead actors Sergei Bodrov, Jr. and Oleg Men’shikov.

Russian Army soldiers Vania and Sasha are captured and chained together in a Chechen home prison cell. The father of the house has seized them out of desperation, as hostages for the release of his own son captured by Russians. The two soldiers have antagonistically opposed perspectives on their options for survival. But their desperate circumstances compel them to join forces. Story-telling is essential for the development of all the characters and their relationships — the young Russians, the grim father, his young daughter Dina, and Hassan their silent armed guard. In a turning point scene, kind-hearted young Vania and cynical Sasha exchange childhood stories. Vania tells of falling down a deep well, and his parents’ adamant search to save him. (The actor died six years later, at age 30; Sergei was directing a film of his own when he and the cast were lost in a landslide in North Ossetia. His parents kept up their own relentless search for the body of their son.)

This is a rare film about ethical choices and outcomes. Time after time the characters approach dilemmas where the Hollywood audience could expect violence, sex, or both. In every case, Director Bodrov sets up the circumstances — then lets the characters create their own higher ground. The film is remarkable for its respectful view of the Chechen people and their suffering in the war, especially the father’s silent grief when his own son is killed and his hostages are no longer his last hope. Dina’s own hopes for a kindly marriage arrangement rest on her only wealth, a dowry of two Russian slaves and one necklace. But she renounces both, tossing the shackle key and her necklace to Vania in the basement dungeon. Vania refuses to unlock the chains and flee, knowing that if he escapes Dina will be punished. Her father arrives home, picks up a rifle, and orders his remaining prisoner to the edge of a nearby cliff….

More films to come!

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9/25/13: Platinum

In the dog realm, she thinks of her classmate as a white Russian borzoi wolfhound: high-float walk, horizon eyes, gracious temper until a first glimpse of wolf crosses his sights. Then he’s gone, snowstreak to the distance.

As dog breeds go she’d be more of a collie from some Albert Payson Terhune bedtime story; counting noses, nudging heels, hovering the flock safe home to Sunnybank. In human terms she’s 19 in 1976, sitting at a desk adorned with names in hearts & arrows. Her own business, if only she were minding it, is a page of Russkii iazyk by I. Pul’kina and E. Zakhava-Nekrasova. But as secondary-imperfective verbs process across the blackboard, her attention sidewinds to a beam of September sun. It comes a little later every day, shafting through the chalk motes to strike the tossable sweep of hair of her classmate near the window. She wonders what color just describes his quality of blond, when gold is kindled past itself to something precious, halfway back to silver.

Up front, the Chair of the Department is all timing and grace: high boots, long skirt of charcoal wool, black turtleneck, Pavlov Posad flowered shawl with cloisonne brooch. The Chair points the chalk and springs a question at the sungazing co-ed. (Shall we give the girl a name? Cleo, perhaps. Wasn’t that Pinocchio’s goldfish?) Cleo snaps to attention, one beat too late for her cue. To her chagrin the question bounces elsewhere to elsewhom as a kindly mirth zephyrs through the students. She ducks behind her text in case the brightly backlit borzoi neighbor should be watching. But unlike her he scans the board, flipping his pencil end over end, turns a page.

That’s his mindset every morning. They all gather before class “to storm Berlin” — to wait for German I to surrender the room. The classmates jostle in high spirits, chatting about grammar assignments or plans for the weekend. But he drops his worn green knapsack on the hallway floor, sits cross-legged in jeans and denim jacket, flips open his textbook and the lid of his coffee. His stillness is not mere indulgence with the bantering and fun; it’s a separate plane of communion with his book, and the language transmitted in each page.

It came as no surprise that in the end, at the graduation awards assembly, the moderators called him on stage over and over as his accomplishments came home to roost. Time after time he left his family to climb the steps and trek across to the podium, until many jocular catcalls suggested that they leave a chair on stage for him. (Cleo’s mom tapped his name on the program. “Remember this young man,” she said. “Remember his name. We’re going to hear of him again some day.”) His peers roared with delight at his harvest of triumph. Cleo bit her nails, fretting at the sudden idea that if people praise a comrade loudly enough, they may forget to notice what the comrade is going through, or what he might need. But they all knew one thing: given the choice tonight, he’d just as soon go catch a smoke in the courtyard and smuggle his coffee in to the language lab for a quiet evening.

That low-key demeanor meandered through his droll anecdotes, mostly at his own expense. Once he told about a mountain camping trip, where he and his friends enjoyed the sunset with their transistor radio playing a bucolic John Denver tune. Then, a camper at another site lost control of a supper fire. In a flash everyone’s equipment and belongings were engulfed as the mountain burned. Amid the flames, the radio played cheerfully while campers ran for their lives. The DSM-II, he concluded, awarded them their own entry: fear of the words “Sunshine on My Shoulder (Makes Me Happy).”

In his serene lack of self-concern he often stayed at the library until the wee hours, missing dinners at the cafeteria. He took his smoking breaks in his open denim jacket in the language building courtyard. He’d light up there and sky-gaze, sitting on a snowy wall beside some devotional statue or other that lingers in memory as injured in some way. (Madonna sans halo? Child without hands?) He was equally assiduous even at home; in a blizzard when the furnace failed in his group apartment, his roommates retreated to their respective beds to conserve heat. They reported later that he opened and lit the gas stove and studied on the floor, smacking at cockroaches fleeing their own tiny campsite. He shrugged off his hoarse sore throats and common colds until a genteel cough became walking pneumonia, landing him a little sojourn at the university medical center across town. There he was soon presiding at a bedside salon of friends and a morning round of medical providers. As they bustled about with his vital signs he gazed at the ceiling, wistfully proposing new hospital protocols on blood tests, monitor signal volume, pressure cuffs, stethoscope temperature and bed baths, all to ensure patients a more sleepless, uncomfortable, and embarrassing stay.

The scene had one witness who never confessed. His admiring classroom neighbor had heard that he was ill. Cleo showed up on the ward to see what he needed — language tapes or soup or just a hello. The hospital seemed huge to her. Peering myopically at room numbers, flattening up against the wall for rushing gurneys, puzzled by loudspeaker codes and lights and alarms and balloon bouquets, she lost her bearings and could find no one with leisure to assist. Then in the commotion a signal reached her: an undertone of silk that she knew right away as the timbre of his voice. Step by step, winding through the nursing stations and the noise, she lost and caught and lost it again until it set her straight and she homed in. Slowly the features of his speech caught her ear: crisp consonants, fully rounded vowels, softness and languor with a wry hint of drawl, a combination she’d imagine from the Scarlet Pimpernel. At last she found the place and peered in. His monologue had the attending physician and residents laughing, hands raised in surrender at his opinions, roped & throwed in their own corral. But what caught her eye was an alabaster quality in his fatigue; for a cold to send him here, he must have been rundown and overstrung for quite some time. It made her want to turn them all out and block the door so he could get some sleep. But she also sensed that he didn’t want solicitude, and that hers was out of line here. She has no memory of ever entering the room or saying hello. She does remember retreating to a waiting room alcove behind a tank of angelfish for fervent prayers of intercession and a quiet cry. Finally she looked up and saw on the wall a splendid photograph of the Peter and Paul Fortress Cathedral at sunset on the Neva River. She took this as an omen that he was going to be just fine. She left him in peace with his visitors, and went home. Soon he was back in class, cheerful as ever. She went back to the hospital to ask where one could buy a Fortress Cathedral photo like theirs. But the poster was gone, leaving only a less sun-faded square on the wall. The head nurse and information desk agreed that their Arts committee did not go in for Soviet landmarks, and no such view of Peter & Paul had ever hung on their walls. Only the angelfish know.

In the winter the campus held a Carnaval do Brasil, a gala so large and festive that even the Eastern Bloc cohorts were all going. The girls at the campus Russian House invited “Cleochka” to come back home with them after and spend the night on their sofa, so she could stay out until all hours. The girls fluffed her hair, and touched her up with some lipstick and eyeshadow. Off they went.

She followed them through the cafeteria door, where all the movable walls had been folded away to make room. It was a vast echoing darkness of sweating walls, vibrating floor, pulsing lights, packed crowd in bared skin and feathers and masks, and the deafening rhythms of a genuine ensemble of Brazilian samba. Cleo was swept yon & hither by ecstatic young people in a winding conga bunny-hop. In that level of eyestrain and overwhelm her wits and memory blanked out, leaving her with no recollection of the evening at all except for one detail. At one point, still gripping her knapsack, she washed up hard against a table and was stopped by a firm palm at her back. The head of the class himself turned her around, seated her sideways right on his knee, and went on talking to his friends. Just as if she’d always been there.

Cleo’s predicament at Carnaval calls to mind a conference several months after September 11th of 2001, when my supervisor and I were obliged to travel to Washington, D.C. She was kind enough to treat me to the picturesque ice rink at the National Gallery of Art. She laced my skates properly for me, then coached and guided as I inched along gripping the rail. At last she heartened me with the battle cry “Are you gonna make me feel guilty for dragging your sorry butt out on this ice?” With that encouragement I resolved: forge ahead, but tuck and roll at the first sign of falling. After that it was a thrilling time, half of it upright on skates and the other half shooting across the ice on my back. In the center, a group of men in good suits skated in a circle, carrying on a grave conversation in murmured Arabic. Every three minutes I plowed into them supine with my arms and legs waving in air. Each time as the men went on talking, one or the other would scoop me up and with a little pat send me on my way. 

That’s how it was for Cleo in her Brazil experience, when a  gentlemanly right action at the right moment on a steady lap grounded a young person who couldn’t make her way. Now, a boy with a personal interest would have given her a sip of his sangria, or a dance, or some banter, or a chair, or the rest of his lap. But no; once he had her settled he went on talking to his friends, coolly shooting down historical and script-direction flaws plaguing Glenda Jackson as Elizabeth the First. He proposed an improved dialogue between the political figures in her retinue, switching accents and voices in a deadpan rendition that left his listeners pounding the table in hyperventilation. (Who could notice a samba school flown in specially from Brazil, when the Queen of England is holding court with a styrofoam cup scepter?) Cleo sat in rapture at this amazing turn of fortune, half breathing, balancing her weight on her toes, afraid she was too heavy for him. When the girlfriends called it time to go, he gave her a fleeting kindly smile and set her on her feet with a consoling little back pat.

On Russian Night, the great hall was a happy madhouse of excitement for the talent show and party. The language club students careened through the halls with shopping carts of Busy Baker crackers and cheese, pirozhki, green punch, and “Odessa” discount vodka. The stars of the show polished comedy skits in the courtyard, hustled props backstage, and altered costumes with staples and tape. Soviet dignitaries put in an appearance, keeping to themselves and checking their watches until they could call it a night. Then, there was a surprise in the program. Our unofficial valedictorian took the stage for a solo with a Russian House girl on backup alto, for the World War II ballad Ekh, Dorogi! or “Ah, You Roads!” (Here’s a recording, with vocalist Oleg Pogudin: Олег Погудин Эх, дороги ) At the opening notes the ruckus in the great hall crashed to silence. The audience caught their breaths and slid to the edge of their seats. The standing-room bystanders hustled to the front. From the wings, even the Soviet dignitaries could be seen shouldering in to the edge of the stage to gaze up through the lights. What riveted them was not only two pure voices aloft or two luminous faces (she had a laughing heart and laughing eyes, and as it happened died very young). What struck them then, and strikes harder now, was a performer who was simply singing his thoughts to his companion without performing at all, as if the public were not there. When the song ended no one moved. Seconds of silence ticked by before the audience kicked the roof off the house.

Half the Blocmates went on summer abroad in Leningrad, to a dorm outside the Peter-Paul Fortress. Cleo rarely saw her seat neighbor now; he placed in the top class, and she placed in one near the bottom. But he sat in front of her on the bus traveling into Novgorod. The bus entered a bustling market square of customers and vendors.  From the raised seat view, the women on the ground formed a crowded procession of hairdos in upbeat hues. Her neighbor sat alone studying a small guidebook (brushing up on Finnish?). But while turning the page he gave the briefest abstract glance out the window, and blinked at the bobbing coiffures in blonde, red, fawn, carrot, bronze, crimson, brass. “Great Barrier Reef,” he murmured, and went on reading.

That night for supper the group was assigned to the “Detinets,” a large stone grotto of a restaurant inside the Novgorod Kremlin. It held a long banquet table in the center, and private seating in alcoves carved high up in the walls. Waiters with trays served alcove patrons by springing nimbly up the wall on a series of massive graduated tree stumps. (After 40 years, the restaurant was shut down in 2009. Explanations vary. Some say Orthodox officials found it unseemly to serve honey mead in a historic church. Others say the fire marshals considered tree trunks to be poor footing for a mass evacuation.) The food was delicious, starting and ending with a stone ramekin cup of onion soup with a handful of bread and cheese melted on top. Cleo was famished and wolfed it down, waiting for supper, not knowing that she had just devoured it. The other diners were content with the famous mead and bottles of vodka from potatoes, from buffalo grass, from berries, from deep jacket pockets. Soon toasts for Russian-American friendship rang out from tables to alcoves and back. Some peacemaker noticed that Cleo was not drinking. He tumbled from an alcove to set down a glass of spirits and to make sure she drank it down for harmony on earth. She gave him a smile and many pretty thanks and regrets, holding the glass out for him to take back, secretly wishing that someone in this restaurant would have sense enough to bring her even pretzel sticks or a dinner mint. But this man was not about to be crossed in public before his wife and colleagues. He grabbed her glass hand while patrons shouted her down and egged him on with cutlery-banging chants of “Davay! Davay! C’mon, c’mon!” while he forced the drink to her lips.

Then, the glass was plucked from their hands. Cleo’s first choice of defender locked eyes with the man and tossed back her drink like water. “Ona ne privykla, she isn’t used to this,” he murmured with a bow, laying a steady handgrip on her shoulder. Then, he fairly assailed the man with praise for his exquisite taste, guessing and naming correctly some special ingredient in the distillation (Ambergris? amanita? aconite? bear bile? brimstone? Who knows?). The man pounded his back, gave him an apology about that little misunderstanding with the girl, and to hearty applause dragged his new American in triumph up the tree trunks to enchant his family and friends. And with that, a restaurant of 80-proof volatile emotions was reined on a dime by a verbal charioteer, a student 20 years old.

Then came graduation and his wedding, and he went on in school to invent a career combining three professions and several countries while raising his family. Some 25 years later Cleo looked him up and sent him an email to thank him for his intervention at the Detinets restaurant. That email exchange was the only conversation the two of them ever had. He emailed right back, freely confessing that he did not recall the incident in question. His reply was so elegant and gracious that it took her a few readings to grasp that he did not actually remember which student she was. He still wished her every success and happiness. He also assured her that for any small gesture on his part, her email of thanks after so many years was a courteous surprise leaving him “priiatno oshelomlën” — pleasantly astonished, or pleasantly stunned. The participle root is shlem, or helmet, with associations at least as old as the Kremlin at Novgorod. He meant that her words unarmed him, smiting the knight’s helmet from his head.

These memories in random order came to mind just the other day. I was cooking supper then, and had the strangest sense that he was standing right behind me in the kitchen. (This does not indicate psychic powers. It only shows that some of us reminisce a lot. Though in this case I asked God what possible use there could be in the gift of a good memory for certain people, when these people don’t need me to think of them at all.) Then, lidding pots and drying hands, I sat down to check email.

And there in my inbox was a message from a trusty schoolfellow off the old Bloc, sending us alumni a sudden and untimely bulletin about our old classmate. Struck helmetless by the news, I looked for and discovered website after website in English and Russian with testimonials and eulogies all about him. I learned in awe just how far he had gone, in what amazing ways, and how many many people were touched by his work and his integrity. Then, there was a tribute website about him written by his family. And with their words, everything clicked into place: the whole point and the meaning of being Cleo at a schooldesk with an eye for light. “Remember me,” he might have told her then; “but not for my sake. Write something down for my children.”

This is what I sent the family then, these few stories about a virtue which is often under- (or over-) looked: a man’s goodness to the small and random people who he didn’t notice at the time, and didn’t remember later on. That courtesy is one more bright thread in his platinum existence, connecting everything: Fortress at sunset, prayers with angelfish, snowfall on marble Madonna and her broken Son. A youth at 20 in the footlights, singing us goodbye:

Ah, you roads, of dust and mist.
You never know where fate will lead
when bullets sing; perhaps the open steppe,
To fall on folded wing.

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7/31: The Carrot-Chopping Prayer

The house was a plain white clapboard, built in 1930 give or take, insulated with a layer of horsehair embedded in the plaster. At $250 per month, my studiolette was a cozy work/sleep room lined up with a smaller kitchen and smaller bathroom, all with tall narrow windows facing north. For bathing, there was a claw-foot tub with a convenience called a Danish — a yard of rubber tubing to hold overhead, fitted to a small outlet for bathwater. The floor had a metal spade-shaped door that could open in winter to let a burst of warm air whoosh through the house every 15 minutes. In summer, air conditioning came from hand-sewed muslin dipped in water and hung over the curtain rods.

This was summer, and no question. My new vegetable garden baked out no matter how much dishwater and tub water I carried outside to pour on the cracked ground; nothing would grow but devil’s claw and very toxic pokeweed. The candles melted. The freezer filled up with ice every day, which I chipped off with a wooden spoon to place inside the warm refrigerator. At least the heat was useful for drying food; I tacked a lot of strings across the kitchen windows, and wove in a carload of fiber-rich daikon radish greens brought from Arkansas upon request by a good pal on an agriculture internship. And at least my quarters didn’t spring the surprises that one charming stone farmhouse did just outside town; a fellow student came downstairs one morning to a wriggling living room floor, where many bitty rattlesnake hatchlings were exploring the brave new world.

We relied on the county bank with its big thermometer outside, and its recorded telephone line with an elated male voice proclaiming time and temperature. The radio gave us the Comfort Index, like a wind chill factor in reverse, calculating just how miserable we felt. It also broadcast Livestock Emergency Alerts, letting farmers know when to get the cows in the barn, or out of it, or whatever cows need to cool off. Storm warning time was late afternoon, when NPR ran an especially popular show (probably “All Things Considered,” but I’ll check and make sure). I switched on public radio only to get bulletins when the sky turned green, so to this day its perky theme music makes me edgy.

Still, the town had real summer charm. To the south we had a fire watch tower with room for conversation and lunch on top, and a view of fields for miles around. On the north, the broad sand river levee was perfect for strolling and picking watercress. On the west, the hilltop had a tiny historic cemetery, a good place to admire sunsets and watch clouds of fireflies and eat mulberries off some nearby trees. The wonderful downtown history museum was a cultured refuge with a gazebo garden and winding path of vintage bricks. The central playground had a vintage locomotive for the kids to climb and scream on, and a popular library. The campus carillon tower played chimes on a hillside blooming with clouds of redbud trees every spring. There were evening band concerts in the park for picnicking families and friends.  Local artisans produced a tempting array of sprouts, fresh-baked sourdough breads, and tofu made the same day; one of them opened a popular micro-brewery in the fully restored historic opera house. The politically progressive food coop sold just-picked produce, some of it from their own garden. Their free giveaway box supplied many of my clothes and household goods; even their compost heap offered perfectly usable items for dinner.

The townspeople made the best of those arduous summers. The 4th of July parade included a tame llama, and food coop cashiers in an annual display of synchronized shopping-cart marching. A dear talented buddy had a fine time hanging half out his window to record severe thunder for his brilliant computerized music compositions. The ladies at the retirement home got in a friendly bet about whether it really was hot enough to “fry an egg on the sidewalk”; they made the front page of the city paper by cracking an egg on the pavement and then laughing at its behavior. The doughnut shop flashed a neon sign at 3:00 a.m., when the fresh batches were put on the racks, and students would throng in the door for a snack in the cool of the wee hours. The local Buddhist temple chose 3:00 a.m. too for their three-hour Sunday service; their little Zen Center house offered rides to anyone who called, and starting at 1:00 the monks in their feed caps would set out in a truck to pick up people for meditation. One afternoon some fellow students brought a truck inner tube to a pond and went swimming. To enjoy the breeze they sat on their towels just as they were for the drive back into town. Then at the drive-in burger stand they wished a little late that they’d put on a stitch or two before pulling up below the cute girl at the microphone.

One third of my income that year (the total annual gross was $6,700; I just checked the tax return) came from proofreading science journals. Each author submitted a typed manuscript, and the publishing house covered it with format markings, then reprinted it as a glossy galley proof. Proofreaders had to make sure that every marking was correctly carried out in the galleys, and complied with the detailed style sheet for that particular journal. For the sake of accuracy, we were not allowed to visually compare the two texts. Instead we had to read the author’s pages out loud into a tape recorder, describing every editing mark: “Capitalize this letter D in mid-word” or “end boldface Courier 10 point text here” or “add opening double curly braces.” Then we listened to our taped recital of editing instructions while reading and marking up the galley with soft red pencils. We were paid a base rate for the job, plus a 12 cent bonus every time we reported a mistake. (One astute proofreader realized that in an article of numeric tables, every last zero had been type-set as a capital letter O. That jackpot must have kept her in 3:00 a.m. doughnuts for a long time.)

The topics included mathematical calculations of crystal structures, prolific chemical equations with calculus symbols and Greek letters, and one about a type of bird which hatches chicks and then carries the chick droppings long distances in its beak, so that prowling predators would follow these little clues away from the nest. (Researchers followed the parents on many housecleaning trips, graphing the time of day, distance, and direction of all droppings dropped.) Another expedition team found that genetic distinctions within one species of spider could be ascertained easily by measuring the thickness of the individual hairs on the spider’s legs.

To save time and to stay awake through all those formulas and equations and literature citations, I devised representational sound effects as shorthand. High falsetto meant italic, growl was boldface, Donald Duck voice was underline. I worked out punctuation taps, yips, beeps, tongue clicks, glottal stops, whistles, and trills. I should have kept the tapes; they sounded like Science Hour with Spike Jones.

In the noonday sun, that horsehair plaster could do only so much insulating and no more. I’d have to take breaks to wet the muslin curtains, sip some roasted brown-rice tea, and take a nap on the wood floor wrapped in a wet towel with both feet in a bowl of water. When the heat was too much for working, I’d recreate the Russian sauna effect. I’d ride my bicycle hard up the main hill, come home, draw a hot hip bath of daikon radish greens (said to help expel toxins, but who knows?), then get out and wrap up in a sheet and blanket and pass out on the floor for a good sweat. Twenty minutes later I’d wake up refreshed, rinse off the sweat under The Danish, throw the water and greens on the garden, wash the blanket and sheet to hang at the window, and pour some more rice tea. (Note: I would never try a wacky extreme stunt like this in a heat wave now, and neither should you.)

Did we mention the neighbors?

They moved in as tenants of the stately Victorian house next door. That summer there were 6 or so students, strapping he-men with optional shirts and shoes. Regularly I gave a friendly nod or wave while passing the house, and tried saying hello a few times, just in the capacity of a neighbor using the same neighborhood. But it was like a squirrel trying to hail the Anheuser-Busch Clydesdales; they never responded or seemed to know I was there. Instead their gusto level ran to drinking wagers, stereo parties, auto revving, sports on TV, sunbathing on the roof with the radio, and visitors day and night who tended to drive or walk by, shouting long complex messages instead of knocking on the door and going inside.

All my windows faced their south windows 20 feet away, offering the full gamut of personal sound effects. At one 3:00 a.m. party, someone turned the stereo to the repeat setting for a couple of hours of a new Janet Jackson hit. The decibel level was actually enough to ricochet distortion against the houses across the street. I thought of calling the police, but couldn’t hear my own dial tone and figured the precinct dispatcher wouldn’t hear anything but “Nasty! Ugh. Nasty boys. Deet! Deet! Doodley-Doot & Dee Dee.

To be fair, the fellas might have a blog today about their stress living next door to an arachnophile who talked, chirped, and beeped all day long in various voices all to herself about leg hair on spiders. Maybe it drove them to drink. Except, their windows faced four sides, and mine faced one. Besides, they were bigger and more loud.

You already see where this is going.

In following their bliss, the boys and their sports cheers, peppery language, and other visceral sound bites were drowning out my recorded hours of painstaking falsetto, tongue clicks, and whistle editing code. One especially hot night while testing a folk remedy for fever (= place green-leaf compresses on the sufferer’s brow), I found that a 60 minute recording of numerals was unusable because of ambient racket. Soon I was weeping hopelessly over my lost numeric tables, pacing the room with a lot of dripping cabbage on my head.

I prayed steadily over this all along, remembering to “Give thanks in all things.” After all, Corrie and Betsy ten Boom did just that in The Hiding Place. They offered praise even for the fleas in the concentration camp barrack, and later learned it was the fleas that had repelled the guards away from their Bible study. So, I began raising every candid noise as an offering, every time. That meant prayer while tape-recording with my head and upper body and tape deck under the futon for soundproofing; prayer during a rare quiet stroll one Sunday morning after a keg party, through hundreds of styrofoam cups rotating all over the street, bouncing pok-pok-pok in the breeze; and, prayer while chopping carrots at suppertime one day.

The carrot greens were washed and ready to strip from their stems and mince for the skillet. The carrots were lined up on the wood cutting board. During some TV match of the century next door, with goals scored and heated suggestions that the referee be given what-for and heave-ho, I was murmuring a prayer while dragging my tired dispirited mind through one even angled knife stroke, then the next even stroke, then the next.

And then, to the rhythm of the prayer, the strokes added up to some kind of rhythm and symmetry and rightness. The knife cuts took no effort at all. It felt as if there were no I, exerting my own force on the knife. Instead, the energy of the sunlight in the window flashed through the knife and then flowed through the carrot pieces. All the elements — light, metal, vegetable, wood — expressed their essences in freedom and balance. For an instant my mind let go of the havoc next door. And then a whole new prayer came to mind: “Thank you for letting me hear my neighbors. Because some day, one of those boys will say something that I need to know.”

Right then, two things happened.
One, the light from the window took on a striking soft gold glow on the maple cutting board, the beautiful saffron tones of the carrots, and the sparkling water drops in the feathery emerald greens.
Two, next door everything fell absolutely silent.

“HEY! Hey they interrupted the –” a voice protested, then instantly fell to a thoughtful mumble. “Whuzzat? ‘Tor-na-do warn-ing, seek shelter immediately.’ Huh.”

I gasped, flicking on the radio in my dash to the front porch. Outside, there was no breath of wind. The birds fell silent. That fond gold light took on a brass jaundice tint while the clouds sagged in darkening quilted patches. Sure enough: the local weather broadcast announced a tornado in air, heading toward town.

I turned off the gas stove and radio, yanked the plug from the tape recorder, and bolted to the dark storm cellar. There I perched with pounding heart on a broken wheelbarrow. We had a bit of hail, then a soft rain. Then the sun came out and the birds began to sing in a fresh breeze, so I tiptoed upstairs and looked around, wiping cobwebs off my face. The storm front was already racing away. My spike of fright melted in an endorphin rush of elation. I kicked off my sandals and drew in the energy of the melting hailstones through my feet, breathing deeply, marveling at the delicate clearing sunset.

My neighbors had taken the safety warning seriously by seeking shelter on their roof, with binoculars and a couple of six packs. The gold light flowing through my carrots was the same gold as the clearing sky, pouring itself over the boys and their flaxen rumpled hair, their tan skin, even the frosty beers in their hands.

Then, it all seemed so simple. Their candid noises, wakeful nights, raised glasses, pounding stereo, girls shrieking with hilarity — in this fallen post-Eden world, it was just one more human striving toward a paradise birthright of celebration, communion, and pleasure. We were all going to the Kingdom.

“Thank you,” I called up to them, putting down my sandals. “You could have saved my life.”
They stared down at me.
“What?” said one of them. “I’ve never even seen you before.”
“The special bulletin. ‘Tornado warning, seek shelter.'”
They blinked.
“What were you doing inside our house?” said one, curling his lip. (How drunk was I last night?)
I pointed to my room. “I’ve never been in your house. But those are my windows, there; I was fixing supper.”
“You heard me say that? Through the window?”
Their jaws dropped. So did the beer cans, nearly.
I just stood there, rapt in how beautiful they were. All that life force! How glorious!

Folding my hands I bowed to them and took my sandals inside.

Right after that, a letter came in the mail. My department on campus awarded me a summer scholarship for Polish Language. It paid more money than proofreading. But, there was one condition: to study full time, I had to give up all outside employment. So I finished the spider leg hair article, and the Press was very kind about giving me a two-month break. That meant leaving the studiolette behind each day for an air conditioned library and language lab, and edifying chats with kindly faculty in their pleasant shady offices.

And after that evening, noise from next door just made me think “Oh, they sound in good health, God love ’em.” Something shifted on their side too. It’s not like they started bringing me pie and Awake! Magazine. But the guys moved the TV room to the other side of the house. When the young ladies came over, they went up to the gable rooms and started closing the windows and even pulling down the shades. The parties ended. One of the guys came out one day and clipped the hedge. Even their outbursts were different: “Oh, sugar!” “What the Fritz are you trying to do?” “Well, ferrr — Christmas sakes!” or my favorite, a roar of “GAAAAAAAAAAAAA Jack, that keg fell right on my shoe, I wish you would be more careful!”

It was raining the last day of my summer term. I came home and saw that the stately Victorian was empty. It was purchased by two earnest women investing in a fixer-upper. For their fixing-upping they rose early each day, and we exchanged waves as I headed to my new additional campus job teaching English as a Second Language.

“But what about the carrots?” someone will ask. They turned out fine. Bit of sesame oil, garlic, shake of tamari & ginger. Not bad.

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9/2: Good Name

“We called you The Fish,” he told her, when the storm was over.

He was one of six bright young grad students with privileged credentials and gorgeous English who came a long long way to the U.S. for a winter internship. She was the co-ed in campus housing next door who saw them arrive. She knew about these distinguished awaited university guests. She imagined how homesick her new fellow students must be in a different culture. So she left the floor mopping to run out into the wind in her t-shirt and jeans, calling greetings in their language. She stayed to help them and the moving men unload their van. That evening she baked them an apple pie and delivered it to their Reception desk. A week later when the youngest one of them had flu, she brought her specially concocted hot golden chicken-vegetable broth in a big jar wrapped in plastic bags, and left that for their unimpressed building manager. When the grocery store showed Bicentennial spirit by selling tiny cherry-sapling sticks for Washington’s Birthday, she planted one at their curbside out front while the Security guards watched through the window. She did not not stop to think that in most countries planet-wide, a modest decent girl does not tote moving boxes for strange men, deliver home cooking to their door, or dig up their garden dirt while singing Shaker hymns. But the interns did. They showed a range of reactions whenever the group met her at seminars and shops. The youngest one in particular always hailed her with humorous pleasantries; the oldest would keep his distance, looking pensive and saying nothing at all.

Then the six interns were included as guests of honor at an awards ceremony in Alumni Hall. For the occasion her roommates staged a cosmetic intervention to dress up her image. They teased and moussed her hair and decked her out in their makeup, perfume, and a sleeveless slit-side clingy silver gown.

She felt off-center in all that array, so she spent the ceremony evening near the auditorium wall beside a potted palm with her usual khaki knapsack and best brown cardigan. But her roommates were right: she was in fact noticed. The American lads from her building got to bantering with the youngest intern and some guests from his country, all about the escalated eagerness of her new vamp costume. One quip led to another, in a chain of assumptions that complicated her life for the next several months. After the players left the country she pieced together the situation, and salvaged the one good memory: an ally that she didn’t expect.

But behind the potted palm, she heard just enough. She heard her hospitable overtures valued like the fortune cookie at a feast, a party favor to crack open and toss as a mistranslated joke. In 1976 she didn’t know that young men might like to compete in thinking up  off-handed remarks about girls when they don’t know who is listening. She didn’t know that once the guffaws died down, her own peers in post-Woodstock America really gave very little hoot about her welcome wagon hobby. But she did live by the tradition that a girl’s crowning gem is her irreplaceable Good Name, and that night she went home believing that hers was lost forever.

Her well-meaning roommates, who thought the Good Name idea was so much piffle, tried to cheer her melancholic gloom with teasing, pep talks, scolding, and hot brownie sundaes. But for the rest of the winter while the ripples rocked the rumor mill, she stayed quiet and subdued, mostly at home. Above all, she dropped any contact with the new neighbors. Coming and going, she even walked the long way round the block to avoid seeing their building or being seen by them.

On a spring night she got off the bus with her commuter reading and knapsack, and trudged uphill to the apartment. At the home stretch, along a brick wall running for several blocks, she broke into a run ahead of a thunderstorm rolling in from the south. A car swooped in beside her. She recognized the driver as the pensive laconic oldest intern. She darted behind his car to run across the street.

Other drivers honked at him to move along. Lightning cracked across the sky.
“Sister!” He shouted through the thunder, waving her toward the car, and threw open the passenger door.
She hesitated a moment while the first hail stones hit the ground.
He drew something from his jacket pocket, held it overhead out the window.
And that clinched it.

“This isn’t looking good,” he apologized as she jumped in and they took off. “Might as well drop you at the — hold on!” He braked (throwing the back of his hand out in front of her) as traffic stopped.  Fire trucks seesawed through the street behind them. The sky turned yellow-green. Hail hammered and bounced on the windshield. The wind rocked the trees and electrical wires.
Hello,” he murmured, glancing over his shoulder. He took a sharp turn off the main street and up the driveway to the Cathedral. Tapping his brakes to test them, he parked in the downwind side of the building. “Shouldn’t drive in this,” he explained, both hands still on the wheel. “It’s a fast moving front; let’s give it five minutes.”
“Good idea, thank you.” She wondered what else to say that wouldn’t sound forward and wrong. “I appreciate it.”

The hail turned to solid rain, blocking out the view through the windshield.
“So. What’s the book?” he asked. “Bus reading?”
“Yes! Here: Wind, Sand, and Stars. Have you read it?”
“Why, St. Exupery.” He read the chapter titles. “Wait — this is Terre des hommes! I read this as a boy. Amazing — imagine finding it again here. What are you doing, reading this?”
“Well, it’s…” She thought it over. “A reminder. How even flying alone — midnight, desert, storm — there’s always some sign in the sky or land to guide us. Even in desolate places. Often something quite beautiful.”
“Navigational philosophy.” He smiled in recognition at some passage on a page, and glanced up at her. “How is it working?”
“I don’t work it very well. As half the school knows by now.”
He gave the book back. “No, that storm blew over. Too.”

The rain eased up just enough for them to see the Cathedral as it loomed on and off, traced by the lightning.
He leaned closer to the windshield, and pointed through the glass as a creature in wet-pointed fur hauled itself up on the pavement and stopped, gaping into the headlights.”Look who’s come to call.”
“Oh!” She swayed a little for a better look through the raindrops. “The biggest rat I’ve ever seen.”
“Rat? No, it’s…” He tapped his forehead. “Ah: Opossum. We’re intruders in his country now, and he’s dazzled by our commotion.” He switched off the headlights, then cranked down his window and leaned out into the rain. “There he goes. He’ll be fine.”

She cranked her window too a bit, listening. “Around the corner of the building, if there’s a wind high up we might hear the bells in the tower.”
“Well. Shall we then?” He turned off the engine and set the emergency brake. They closed the windows, and she groped for the door handle.
Instead of reaching across her he leaped out and opened the door from outside. They sprinted around the corner to stand under an arch, with the city lights sparkling off to one side and the dark gardens sloping down before.

The rain was a calm steady downpour three feet away, a solid falling veil hemming them in.
“Warm enough?” he asked her, preparing to shrug off the jacket.
“Oh, keep it, really — this is fine, it’s nice.”
They listened to the bells breathe long-drawn chimes, shifting tones with the wind. A startled pigeon tumbled from the tower and soared back up again.

Somehow, on their own in the storm, they felt their way into talking.
“You did have me puzzled,” he confided. “The week we arrived, what was that big jar? Were you behind that plan?”
“My special chicken health broth. I told the manager!”
“He just left it at our door. We had no idea. And you keep Washington’s Birthday, the president who never told a lie. Wouldn’t you celebrate by chopping down the cherry trees, instead of putting them in?”
“Had to start somewhere first. Chop it down next year if you like.”
“Can’t, leaving in two weeks. Besides, it’s got little leaves now. Or what’s…? Pre-leaves.”
“Buds. I forgot that tree. It’s alive?”
“It is. Someone might have watered it. A time or two.”

He reached in his jacket pocket again, and this time dropped the rosary in her hands.
“This is wonderful.” She looked it over. “I’ve had this rosary since I was a little girl. I thought it was gone for good.”
“I was going to leave it in an envelope with your name, at your department office. But, I thought you just might cross paths somewhere around.” He did not trouble to mention that he’d kept it to show a few of the regulars around the department (refugee cleaning crew, a reference librarian, night staff at the language lab, friendly priest from the chapel near the classrooms). He made a few discreet inquiries about her. He drew out his willing sources, then when he was satisfied reported his findings to the local elders from his country, people with all the right social clout to intervene with the rest of the interns. Stopping the domino wall of pointless slander cost him trouble and time and a falling-out with his people, and it gained him nothing. But he did it anyway. “And then there you were. Walking wrapped in your storm and your book.”

“Wherever did you find my beads?”
“Alumni Hall.”
“Ah, their evening bag — the clasp was loose. See, I was lost without all my usual pockets; the dress they picked out didn’t have any.”
“Picked out?” He gave her an instant’s lookover, and narrowed his eyes. “Who picked out what?”
“My roommates picked out the dress. They wanted to smarten me up. They tried so hard, I didn’t have the heart to hurt their feelings. But the makeup and clothes, and all? It was their stuff and their idea.”
“Theirs. Goodness.” He whistled in through his teeth and covered his eyes. “Oh dear. Oh I am sorry.”

He took three steps away for a long minute, jingling the car keys and looking out over the gardens. “Neither evil tongues,” he said, “Rash judgments, nor the sneers of selfish men, nor greetings where no kindness is, nor all the dreary intercourse of daily life, shall e’er prevail against us.” He came back under the arch again. “Or disturb our cheerful faith, that all which we behold is full of blessings.”

She was pleased and heartened by his words and his lovely style of recitation. This was what people did in his country, she knew — recited great amounts of classical epics and chronicles and narratives, and then quoted them on all occasions. True, it seemed unusual that he’d learned this poem in particular; a young man at the top of his career, bright future ahead, winning awards — what could it mean to him? But she felt happy that he told it to her anyway.

“Star.” He pointed. The clouds were already blowing away. “Navigation for the journey home.”
The rain ended in a soft breeze. The elm trees showered their papery heart flowers over the grass and his windshield.
Hands in his pockets he circled looking at the ground, scuffing his heels in the elm flowers. “Can I go back to my unfortunate portion of the Third World, and remember you as being all right again?”
She thought that over, breathing the fresh storm air. True, a complex mindless practical joke had dis-illusioned her natural admiration of men as men. But instead she had this, a gift of time and an arch of shelter from a man who decided to believe in her. “Yes, thank you.” It was her first spark of understanding that in grace, it is never too late to begin amending a reputation.

Back at the car, he walked around checking around the tires. “Let’s make sure our little friend didn’t come back under the car…”
He opened her door. On the back seat floor he found an ice brush and wiped the elm flowers off the windshield. He handled the emergency brake and headlights and ignition. He drove her to her front entry and pulled in under the driveway canopy, waiting to make sure she got in the lobby door. Then he drove off and soon departed for his country, to a storm of man-made workings far more terrible than weather under any sky. For six young men with ties to America, survival was not likely at all.

Did he have a premonition of it, even then? On their way back he recited the rest of that poem for her.

…Nor wilt thou then forget,
That after many wanderings, many years
Of absence, these steep woods and lofty cliffs,
And this green pastoral landscape, were to me
More dear, both for themselves and for thy sake.

“We called you The Fish,” he explained, shifting into Neutral. “That’s the name we settled on, to talk about you. It’s the only explanation we could find.”
“Fish as in cold heart?” Her own heart sank a bit.
“Fish as in no passport, no borderland. Foreign more or less, at home more or less; now this country, now that language. But try to pin her down, and she slips through your hands. Silver and gleam. Back to the sea.”

He got out and opened her door. “Farewell. God bless you.”
“And you.” She handed him the book. “I would like you to keep this, if you please. Thank you for talking to me.” She held out her hand, then realized, one instant too late: handshake across genders; her final cultural error.
“Welcome.” He ducked his head, smoothing back his hair. But, he made his decision and reached out, clasping three of her fingertips for a moment before getting back in the car.

“That poem is splendid,” she called. “Did you translate that? One of your classics?”
“One of yours. Wordsworth, Tintern Abbey,” he called back. “Everything I said, and everything I didn’t. Sister.”

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5/31: Step Right Up!

The moral of this story is not that people born outside the U.S. are inclined toward bewilderment or learned helplessness. (Rest assured that in most life skills, the majority of people the world over could rocket figure eights all around my level of competence.) This vignette is only an example of a parallel conversation — times when you think and I think that we are describing the same picture, when in fact we are looking at two different views. Parallel conversations are a mainstay of comedy shows and cross-cultural mishaps of all kinds. Onward.

On a clear summer evening the bus rolled along through open fields, heading for our small town. Over wild blackberry and yellow Scots Broom and crying killdeer, the sun was setting in a clear apricot sky.

The town was a resettlement area for a wonderful array of refugee families. For this white Anglo lady, it was a great interest and pleasure to take in the scene among fellow commuters: thin bronzed wiry young men speaking Spanish, women with grocery bags speaking Ukrainian, teenage girls veiled in graceful hijab gesturing with henna-patterned hands speaking Arabic, senior citizens with splendid silver mustaches and Sikh turbans speaking… Punjabi?

The bus driver turned off the highway toward our little transit center on the green, at the heart of the historic downtown. Just then, a police car behind us switched on its siren and pulled us over, parking in front of our bus. A second car with siren came flying, and parked in back. One officer approached the driver’s window. From the first seat I heard him mention the Justice Center, a local landmark several blocks from downtown: “… So, pull in there, in the back parking lot. They’ll just have to walk the rest of the way.”

Later, the neighbors told me why. At our bus terminal, a high school student from out of town came for the first day of the annual Street Fair; he exchanged words with some local teens. One of them had a gun, and the gun went off. Fortunately, no one was hurt. In the alarm and confusion on the street, police took the teenagers in for questioning, diverted the traffic, and roped off the area to watch out for further incidents.

Meanwhile, the police officer boarded our bus. (One of the teenagers smoothed her veil closer, hiding the baby girl in her arms.) The officer tucked his thumbs in his belt and shouted an announcement. “This bus is coming out of service. We’ve cleared the downtown.  Station’s closed off.” He waved his arms at us in a herding gesture. “Last stop will be up here, on account-a the rioting, okay?” He looked around at his listeners, all sitting very silent and very still. “Riots, riots,” he repeated for their benefit, and left the bus.

Passengers whispered from seat to seat. “Riots? Ri-ots?” I crossed the aisle to the Ukrainian women and explained in Russian that the police were there only for our safety, to inform us of “some fighting” downtown. (To my chagrin, the only word for “riot” that came to mind was забастовка, and that applies to the Pugachev Rebellion of the late 1700s.) Then I explained to the Spanish speakers, again having no idea of the correct word, and hoping that peleando was close enough for describing argumentative trouble. The passengers had the same problem I did: “riot” is not a high frequency word in anybody’s language class, and for the other languages on this bus my  vocabulary would be no help at all.

At first, when the sirens first pulled up, the families and friends looked so tense that they might have been wondering whether one of them would be pulled off the bus by these pursuing police. But now it dawned on them all: the squad cars were escorting the lot of us straight up the driveway to the County Jail!

To this day, years later, it’s a heartache to think back on the fear and helplessness that crossed their faces. Most sat stolid and resolute. A few covered their eyes, or leaned their heads on one another’s shoulders, or shook their heads and whispered whatever words came to mind during that three minute trip up the driveway.

Then, we heard a child’s cry from the back of the bus. “Mira, Papi! Look, Dad!” he shouted in Spanish, bouncing in his seat. “He said RIDES! RIDES!” The passengers turned to stare at the little boy, then looked outside. Oh! Clever kid. Rides, sure enough! Once we pulled behind the building, there they were in plain sight — a Ferris wheel and carousel, and a little roller coaster. There was a stage too, with folk singing and dancing, all kinds of amusements and concession stands with ethnic foods, an ice cream truck playing “Bicycle Built for Two,” and all of it up in lights.

The driver braked and flung open the door. He pointed out the way, saying he was sorry for the inconvenience and wishing us all a hearty good night. The passengers burst out with clapping and laughter. “Rides!” they sang out. Imagine, the U.S. police showing up just to tell everybody about a Fair! They scrambled for their groceries and lunch pails and diaper bags and poured out of the bus like it was dry land on Ararat.

I struck out alone into the grass near the train tracks, with goldfinches skimming all around me. Once I turned back for a last look. The travelers, hand in hand with their skipping children, hurried toward the celebration across blackberries and Scotch Broom, under the apricot sky.

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